Four Ways To Remove Old Paint And Reveal the Beautiful Wood Hiding Underneath | YouTube Video Included
Have you ever started stripping a piece of furniture and wondered what you’d gotten yourself into? Hours of work, stubborn paint, and a whole lot of elbow grease… I’ve been there! Today I’m sharing four ways to remove paint from wood furniture and tips to help you choose what works best where. Sometimes, using different methods on the same piece makes the job a whole lot easier! I’m sharing them on this curbside table my sister Andrea found, and I can’t wait to share what was hiding under the paint and hear what you think of this trash-bound table now!
In today’s tutorial, I’m sharing –
- 4 ways to strip an existing paint finish off your old furniture
- A Bonus stripper I’m trying for the very first time
- My favorite stain color to restore a gorgeous piece of wood
- And more…
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Here’s the pink magazine table Andrea found curbside. Just wait until I share what was inside the cubby of this table…
This piece was really scratched up. It looked like someone was using it as a cutting board.
And what I found even more interesting was that someone had lined the interior with sheets of metal/copper… whaat?? I wondered if they were hiding a treasure between the copper and wood. And again, I was wondering should I remove it – or keep it? I posted this on Facebook asking if anyone knows why it was lined in copper, and I received some very interesting feedback. Humidor, smoking cabinet, telephone table, ice box, pie and bread safe, and a chamber pot stand, to name a few. You can check out more of the comments on the actual Facebook Post here.
THIS POST IS SPONSORED/CONTAINS AFFILIATE LINKS TO PRODUCTS I USE. YOU CAN SEE MY FULL DISCLOSURE HERE.
YOUTUBE TUTORIAL
Here’s the full step-by-step YouTube tutorial for you. Then, keep scrolling for all the products, supplies, colors, and step-by-step details! Our #siyoutubefamily is already a community of 60.2K, so don’t forget to subscribe if you haven’t done so already. You’re the BEST, and I appreciate your support! 🙂
SUPPLIES
Magazine Side Table – SALVAGED
White Lightning Cleaner
Auto Sponge
Carbide Scraper for Removing Paint
Palm Sander For Sanding
Heat Gun
CitriStrip Chemical Stripper
Sanding Sponge
Golden Ash No Pain Gel Stain
Gator Hide Topcoat
4 Ways To Remove Paint From Wood Furniture
So here’s how this little table was all stripped down of paint…
PREPPING THE SIDE TABLE FOR ITS MAKEOVER
To start prepping this piece for its new look, I gave it a good cleaning with my heavy-duty furniture cleaner and a sponge. It was filthy. I had to go over the entire piece more than five times for the sponge to finally be running clean under the tap. Then I let the piece dry overnight.
The next day, I removed the loose bottom of the magazine rack and reached for my carbide scraper. Time to see what was hiding under that pink paint.
And as a side note, there always seem to be a few comments on social media saying WHY would someone paint this? Painted furniture can bring out some strong opinions, and I understand loving an original wood finish. I love it too! But this little piece has clearly had a full life, and someone cared enough to give it a fresh look. I’m tickled pink someone took the time to paint this in their own style! We might choose different finishes, and that’s part of the fun of creating. And the awesomeness of wood furniture is that it can KEEP BEING REFINISHED in a variety of ways over the years!
METHOD 1 – CARBIDE SCRAPER
A carbide scraper has become my favorite way to remove an old finish! No stripping chemicals, smells, or fumes, just good ol’ elbow grease. The tool is inexpensive, and the carbide blade lasts a LONG time. I’ve been using mine for over a year and haven’t replaced it yet. The blade has two scraper sides, so when one gets a little dull, you can take it out and flip it to the new side.
To remove a finish easily, the trick is to use steady, even pressure and adjust your pressure depending on the finish you’re removing and the hardness/softness of the wood underneath. Start with a light touch and see how the finish responds—you want to lift the finish without gouging or scratching into the wood underneath.
Here are a few tips when using a carbide scraper…
- Test a small area first to get a feel for the angle and pressure that work best.
- Work with the wood grain whenever possible to help prevent scratches and tear-out.
- Use controlled strokes. There’s no prize for taking off the finish in one giant swipe.
- Keep the blade clear of buildup so it continues scraping cleanly.
- Ease up around corners, edges, and veneer. You don’t want to remove wood along with the finish.
- Switch blade shapes for curves and smaller details rather than forcing a flat blade into tight spots.
- If the scraper starts digging in or skipping, stop and adjust your angle or pressure.
- Finish with a light sanding if needed to smooth any remaining marks.
A carbide scraper works wonderfully on smaller details as well. I’ll share it in action in this weekend’s upcoming video tutorial. I used the corner of the blade to get into details on the carved wood and also remove the paint from the metal hardware.
METHOD 2 – SANDING
Sanding with a palm sander is a great way to remove an old finish and smooth the wood at the same time, especially on flat surfaces like tabletops and drawer fronts. There’s no stripper to scrape off, and you can see your progress as you go! Just be sure to wear a mask – safety first.
The grit you start with will depend on BOTH the existing finish and the wood underneath. You want sandpaper that’s aggressive enough to remove the finish without leaving deep scratches, gouges, or swirl marks to deal with later. Softer woods need a lighter touch and often a higher starting grit, while harder woods may tolerate a coarser grit when needed. Test a small area first, let the sander do the work, and gradually move up to finer grits for a smooth surface ready for its new finish.
A few more sanding tips…
- Keep your sander flat and moving steadily. Pressing harder won’t give you a better result.
- Replace clogged or worn sandpaper rather than pushing harder to make it work.
- Remove dust between grits, so leftover particles don’t scratch the wood.
- Work through the grits gradually. Fine sandpaper won’t quickly erase deep scratches left by coarse paper.
- Hand-sand delicate edges, curves, and details to preserve their shape.
- Be extra careful with veneer—it’s easy to sand through that thin layer of wood.
METHOD 3 – HEAT GUN + SCRAPER
A heat gun and putty knife or scraper can be a handy combination for removing old paint. The heat softens the paint so you can gently lift it away rather than scrape away at a stubborn finish. Before trying this method, identify the coating if possible and make sure ALL the paint layers are lead-free—not just the top coat. Never use a heat gun on lead pain/finishes because it can give off fumes when heated.
Traditional oil-based and alkyd paints are often good candidates, while latex and acrylic paints can soften into a sticky, gummy mess rather than lift off cleanly. A small test spot like I used on this table, will tell you a lot!
For this particular piece, I’m focusing on the grooves and smaller detailed areas rather than the large flat surfaces, using a scraper that fits the shape and a light touch to protect the wood underneath.
More heat gun tips…
- Start with a low heat setting and increase only as needed, following your heat gun’s instructions.
- Keep the gun moving. Holding it in one spot can scorch the wood or start a fire.
- Work in small sections and scrape while the paint is still soft. It doesn’t always need to bubble before it’s ready!
- Use a metal putty knife or a shaped scraper that fits the groove. Avoid sharp corners that can dig into the wood.
- Keep your hands and scraper out of the hot air stream.
- If the paint smears or gums up, try another removal method rather than continually adding more heat.
- Be especially cautious around veneer and glued joints—heat can loosen the adhesive.
- Work with good ventilation and use the protective equipment specified for your tool and coating. A dust mask doesn’t protect against fumes.
- Keep the heat gun away from chemical strippers, solvents, and flammable materials.
METHOD 4 – CHEMICAL STRIPPERS
Chemical strippers can be a great option for removing an old furniture finish, especially around turned legs, grooves, and details that are tricky to sand or scrape. They soften the coating so you can lift the old finish away with less scraping, and some products can tackle several layers at once. The key is choosing a stripper made for the paint, varnish, or other finish you’re removing—and giving it time to work.
Gel and paste formulas are handy on vertical surfaces because they cling better. Follow the directions on YOUR product, because application, wait times, and cleanup can vary quite a bit. Chemical strippers work but they are not my favorite to work with. They can be messy, smelly and good ventilation is a must. But if I’m having a hard time removing a finish, bringing out the big guns and letting the stripper do the hard work does make the job easier.
Chemical Stripper tips and tricks…
- Test a small hidden area first to see how the finish responds.
- Apply a good, thick layer. Spreading it too thin can make it less effective.
- Give it the recommended time to work. If the finish still resists gentle scraping, it may need more time or another application.
- Work in manageable sections and avoid letting the stripper dry out. Only cover it with plastic wrap if the manufacturer recommends it.
- Use a scraper suitable for your product and keep a light touch to avoid gouging your wood.
- For grooves and carvings, use a compatible brush or detail tool to gently loosen the softened finish.
- Be careful around veneer and glued joints. Avoid soaking the piece or leaving the product on longer than directed.
- Follow the label’s cleanup instructions exactly. Some products require a specific wash or neutralizer before refinishing.
- Allow the wood to dry fully before sanding, staining, or painting.
- Work outdoors when possible and wear chemical-resistant gloves and eye protection as directed. “Low odor” doesn’t mean harmless!
- Keep strippers away from heat guns, sparks, and flames.
- Check older paint for lead before starting. Lead-containing residue needs special handling and disposal—chemical stripping doesn’t make it harmless.
- Collect the residue and dispose of it according to the product label and your local waste guidelines. Don’t pour it down the drain!
BONUS – ACETONE STRIPPER
I’m including this under the chemical stripper umbrella even though it’s a solvent. My friend Natalie at A Ray Of Sunshine introduced me to this method on our Furniture Fixer Uppers tour, and I’m so glad I tried it! It worked amazing on the curvy, shapely spindles.
Working outdoors, I took an old rag and laid it on top of the spindle and poured some Acetone to wet the rag completely. I let it sit for a few minutes so the acetone loosened all the paint and then used the rag to wipe the paint right off! Nitrol gloves and eye safety are a must, along with good ventilation, but this is an easier way to remove paint from all those tiny crevices.
SANDING DETAILS
Once I had the bulk of all the pink paint removed using the methods above, I hand sanded the remaining bits off and smoothed out the entire surface before staining. I have a few hand sanding hacks that I’ll be sharing in this weekend’s video as well. Using sandpaper wrapped around a pencil to get into grooves, and a duct tape spindle sanding hack I share in this video here as well.
STAIN AND FINISHING DETAILS
Once I had the table totally stripped, sanded, and all the dust removed, I brought it back into my painting room and started staining the wood. I picked this gorgeous Gold Ash No Pain Gel Stain that is a beautiful and classic mid-tone stain. You may remember I used it on my Dad’s Wood Garden Bench here, and also on my Hallway Table Makeover Table here. It has been my go-to stain color for a traditional not too yellow/orange look since the first time I used it!
Applying the gel stain is super easy. I give it a good mix. Then, using a sponge, brush, rag, or shop cloth, I apply it, working in manageable sections, then wipe back the excess. I move onto the next section and repeat.
To protect the oil-based stained finish on this side table, it requires 3-5 days of dry time before topcoating. I like using Gator Hide for a super durable finish that I can spray. For the finishing touches, I reassembled this table. I debated whether or not to remove the magazine rack portion but then decided to keep it all original as Andrea found it. I’m curious what you would have done? Keep the magazine cubby or remove it?
I also removed the metal lining from the back of the door (it was all discolored from the chemical paint remover) and straightened out the hardware, so it wasn’t hanging sideways anymore.
THE BIG REVEAL…
Here’s the finished look! What do you think!?
For a beat-up curbside table, I’m really pleased I chose to strip it down and see what was hiding underneath all this paint. It’s far from perfect, and looks a little rustic, but I think having it stripped back and stained really brings out some great vintage character in this piece.
And check out how straight the teardrop hardware hangs now. It looks sooooo much better.
And here’s a look at the inside. I’m still so curious if something is hidden behind this metal lining! I’m also really happy I removed the sheet on the back of the door and restained.
And just for fun, I prompted AI to generate this stripped-and-stained side table in an olive modern roomscape. Here’s what it generated. I LOVE it! But if you look closely at the magazine holder portion… it did its own thing, adding spindles instead of the solid piece of wood. 😆 And there is something else different on this table as well… can YOU spot it?
And now for some Trashy Treasures FUN!
Below are the TTT ladies’ BEFORE photos. Visit the links below to see the amazing AFTERS and learn how they did it! I’m heading over to take a peek as well! x
1. PETTICOAT JUNKTION
2. SI (HAPPY YOU’RE HERE!)
3. CONFESSIONS OF A SERIAL DIYER
4. ARTSY CHICKS RULE
Here’s another look at the before and after of this old, beat-up, trash-bound table. I hope it inspires you to remove some old paint and see what is hiding underneath on one of your makeovers!
FINAL THOUGHTS
Stripping an old finish takes some time and effort, so I like to pick pieces that feel ‘worth it’ and inspire me. If I’m curious about the wood hiding underneath an old piece, it’s a GO! And I like that you don’t have to use one method from start to finish, either. Combining different methods can make the job easier, especially on a piece with lots of details and shapely spindles.
My final thoughts would be to be flexible, take your time, and give yourself permission to take breaks. Also, the proper safety equipment and good ventilation are super important so you can enjoy the process AND the reward of seeing that beautiful wood come back to life!
Thank you so much for being here and for following along with our October Furniture Fixer Uppers Tour. If you have a question or want to say hello, I’d love to hear from you in the comments below — you always brighten my day!
Happy creating, sweet friends! 💙
Denise x
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This is such a helpful guide. I have a battered old dresser waiting in the garage and I have been putting off stripping it for months. Your heat gun tips finally gave me the confidence to start this weekend.
That curbside table was such a rescue! I’ve mostly used sanding to strip pieces, but your carbide scraper tips convinced me to give it a try on the flat areas. The acetone trick for spindles is a new one for me too — definitely bookmarking this one. 🔧
Thank you and if you end up giving it a try, I’d love to hear what you think!
Denise you did a gorgeous work on this table. The wood finish is so much more interesting. And charming than any color paint could be. The copper lining suggests bread box Intentions to me. Whatever it is this piece is beautiful
Thank you Lori! I think the stained wood finish is much more interesting as well!
I’m team carbide scraper all the way — picked one up last year and it paid for itself on the first dresser I stripped. The lead-paint warning on the heat gun section is so important, a lot of tutorials skip right past that. And I’d have kept the magazine cubby too, it’s the piece’s character! 👍
thanks so much Justin! I love the carbide scraper as well, works amazing!
Thank you so much for sharing all these methods! I had real issues trying to remove the paint on a door with it leaving paint in all of the teeny, tiny grooves. Everyone always makes it looks so easy online, lol. I hung the door after fighting with it for days, not sure what to do with it now, tbh. 😅 I think the AI picture smoothed out the finish (might be the lighting it used?), replaced the spindles with a solid piece, and turned the curve near the magazine side into a straight side. I couldn’t find any other differences!!
I’m so glad you found these helpful, and yes, I’ve had some real issues removing paint in detailed areas as well. 😅 These tips and methods I’ve shared have really helped me out, but that said, stripping furniture takes time, patience, and work. I don’t find it as easy as some people make it look online either.🤣 And thanks for joining in on the AI fun – YESsss, the finish looks more uniform and smooth for sure!!!… there’s still one thing tho lol
Hi Denise! I love what you did to this little magazine table. The AI picture has the magazine holder looking different. Instead of the solid piece it has something different. Such a pretty little piece. Thank you for all the stripping lessons. LOL
Hi Cherly!🤗 So glad you love it! Good eye – yesss and there is still something else no one has seen. I’m starting to doubt myself and think maybe I’m the one seeing it wrong.🤣
Beautiful job Denise. Love the stain color. It appears that each foot is more tapered toward bottom in the AI depiction. Either way the piece is stunning and looks happy.
Aww, thanks, Trish, I love that… it looks HAPPY!😃 And you’re not the first person to say the legs/spindles are different (I received a few emails on this as well) so they may be! But there’s still something else. I’ll share in next week’s post because someone still may see what I’m seeing.
What an awesome post! Stripping furniture is never my favorite thing but this is such good info! Love how it turned out, so pretty, Denise!! xoxo
Thank youuu! Stripping furniture is so satisfying AND time-consuming, so I get it. Thanks so much Nancy, and have a great week! XOXO
This is a tutorial that keeps on giving — paint-stripping guidance, a makeover, and a “one of these is not like the other” challenge. What a treat! BTW, I love your addition of the AI staging shot at the end of many of your posts. Makes for an interesting sign-off.
Hi Cyndel and thanks! I’m so glad you find the tutorial helpful AND fun!😃 I’m having fun with the AI staging at the end as well. I find it super interesting how it interprets my prompts. Have a fabulous week! XOXO
That is a dramatic change. The pink was probable a cutie – but surely did get beat up.
Thanks for the ways to strip pieces – I’ll be saving this for future reference ! And good to know you take the needed breaks to woosahh the mind and body. Good advise.
I am dumbfounded with how beautiful this piece looks now. I love the details on the door. and I also like the copper inside the box – even if I have No idea what it’s for.
I can see why you love this Gold Ash stain !! It’s such a soft color – beautiful. I definitely need to use this.
I don’t see any reds or yellows. Love that.
Can’t wait for the video. Thanks.
YES, I needed some breaks while stripping this piece lol. Once I started feeling tired or less focused with the details (you’ll see I used a dollar store dental pick in this weekend’s video for those sweet carvings on the door!) I took a break and came back to it. Might as well enjoy the process rather than rush it, right?!😊 So happy you love the Golden Ash stain and it’s new look. Wishing you an awesome week! XOXO
You put a lot of love into this table and it shows! Thank you for sharing your expert advice on removing old paint. I had never heard of using Acetone solvents. The stain tone of the wood is beautiful and for the AI image (a super fan of the olive walls with your stained table) I’m noticing the spindles and the straight edge.
Thanks Nicki and I’m happy to share a ‘new to me’ way of stripping paint of spindles and details as well. Until Natalie’s post, I had never tried so I’m learning new ways right alongside all of you.😊 So happy you love the stain (it’s been my fave the last year or so!) and as for the AI – there is still one more thing it changed that nobody has noticed yet. Great eye, though, and thanks for chiming in!
I love that you stripped and stained this piece. Great job.👏 Keep up the good work. FYI the copper is for a humidor.
Humidor! And thanks so much Jan, I really like it stained as well! 😀
Andrea finds great stuff! But that copper-lined cabinet… there’s a story there, and the world may never know. 😄Great post, and I appreciate you sharing the 4 ways to stripe paint. I hadn’t heard of using acetone. It makes sense, though, because it also removes nail polish. I do love that you refinished the wood. Lovely makeover. 🤎
Pinned 📌
Have a beautiful week, my friend. xo 🙂
I’m so lucky Andrea does find the BEST stuff! We are blessed to have bulk day (3 items per household) every few weeks around the city so we are always keeping our eyes peeled for these little gems. And yes, I’ll bet theres MANY stories this piece could tell! Thanks for the PIN and have a wonderful week as well my friend! XOXO
Wow! That was a lot of work! It turned out beautiful! It has so much detail and it was certainly worth saving. I think the copper lining was added to use it as a humidor. It’s a darling piece! Great job!
Thanks so much Janet and ya, stripping furniture is a lot of work. I always think I can do it in half the time it actual takes me.😆
Hi Denise. What an awesome find. It was pretty in pink, although very beat up, but I definitely prefer your stained look. You’ve given this little table a whole new life. Beautifully done.
Aw, thank you my friend! I thought it was cute painted pink as well but ya, pretty beat up. So glad you like the stained look as well! Enjoy your week. XOXO
Hi. Just wanted to confirm that the copper lining is for storing tobacco products. It keeps the moisture out. Both my mom and my grandparents had very similar, copper lined tables. They called them smoking tables,and my grandfather kept his cigars inside.
Hi Rebecca! Yes, a smoking/magazine table – they go hand in hand.😉 Thanks for confirming… I appreciate it! 😀
I love that you shared all the ways you can strip a piece. I don’t do much sanding back to wood, but I usually reach for my sander when I do. I might have to try Natalie’s method next time! And i see the AI mad the sides straight rather than curvy, but it took me a bit to find that lol. Beautiful save, my friend! XOXO
I really liked the Acetone method, it was a HUGE help with all the details in the spindles. And this is hilarious, Christy – I didn’t even notice that it straightened the side rather than leaving them curvy!🤣🤣🤣 Good eye!!! So thats 3 things its changed, and I’m not going to mention the third (just yet) because I want to see if anyone else can see it.🙂 Have a wonderful week! XOXO
It turned out lovely, a piece that certainly didn’t need to be painted! I absolutely believe/know it’s a humidor. I’ve had many….
FYI – I do not see the AI image you referred to.
Hi Gwen! Thanks for confirming it was used as a humidor. That was the most common answer I received on FB (along with some actual pictures!) so I was leaning towards that as well. And let me look into the AI image for you… I appreciate you letting me know!
Nice find on the table , turned out beautiful with the stain.
Thanks so much, Teresa! 🤗